Watches

Two Pucci Rolexes carry estimates above CHF 1m at Phillips

Sixteen watches from Pucci Papaleo's 70-piece Rolex collection go into the Geneva Watch Auction XXIV on 7 and 8 November. A Stelline Ref. 6062 is estimated at CHF 600,000 to 1,200,000.

By Carat Capital

What changed

Two lots cross a million francs. Phillips has taken sixteen watches from Pucci Papaleo's 70-piece Rolex collection into its Geneva Watch Auction XXIV. Two of them carry estimates exceeding CHF 1,000,000. The sale runs 7 and 8 November.

What it means

  • If you bid on vintage Daytonas: Both CHF 1m lots are priced on uniqueness, not comparables.
  • If you consign to this sale: It is Carat Capital's third announcement for one November auction.
  • What this is not: A result. Every figure is an estimate and the sale is in November.

Key figures

Estimate exceeded by two of the sixteen lotsconverted by the source to nearly $1.2 million eachCHF 1,000,000
Watches consigned from the collection, 22.9%16 of 70
Stelline Ref. 6062 low estimate, high CHF 1,200,000CHF 600,000
Six named lots at their estimate floorsCHF 3,350,000

Source: JCK, 30 September 2026, datePublished read off the page · page read direct, 112,424 bytes · sale 7-8 November 2026

Sixteen of seventy watches

Part of a collection. Sixteen watches from Pucci Papaleo's 70-piece Rolex collection are consigned, 16 of 70. That is 22.9% of it, on Carat Capital's division.

The span is long. The selection runs from Rolex's first Oyster-cased chronograph of 1939 through the manual-winding Daytona era. Phillips' senior consultants Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo say Papaleo has spent “more than 30 years pursuing knowledge and perfection”.

The date is fixed. The Geneva Watch Auction XXIV runs on 7 and 8 November at Geneva's Hotel President. Highlights tour Dubai, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Riyadh and London first.

The six named lots and their published estimatesGeneva Watch Auction XXIV, 7-8 November 2026 · estimates as published 30 September 2026
LotEstimateBasis of the claim
Ref. 3830, c.1941, 18ct yellow goldexceeds CHF 1,000,000no other example recorded at auction
Ref. 6264 Paul Newman Lemon, c.1970exceeds CHF 1,000,000only 14ct gold example in the 2.3m serial range
Ref. 6062 Stelline, 18ct yellow goldCHF 600,000 to 1,200,000published range
Ref. 3525 Bariletto, Prouds-signedCHF 250,000 to 500,000published range
Ref. 3335, 18ct pink gold, Monetti dialCHF 250,000 to 500,000published range
Ref. 6239, steel, Paul Newman MusketeerCHF 250,000 to 500,000published range
Six lots at their floorsCHF 3,350,000Carat Capital's addition
Notes on this table

Estimates are the source's own, in Swiss francs, which is the currency the sale is struck in. The CHF 3,350,000 floor is Carat Capital's addition of the six published low figures, treating the two million-franc lots at CHF 1,000,000 each because no ceiling is published for either; the true floor is therefore at least that. The other ten of the sixteen consigned watches carry no published estimate. The source converts CHF 1,000,000 to nearly $1.2 million, which implies a rate of about 1.20 dollars to the franc; no dollar figure is printed here as a price.

Two lots priced without comparables

A square Rolex. The circa 1941 Ref. 3830 is a 30mm square stepped-case chronograph in 18-carat yellow gold, signed by the Milan retailer Verga. It was last seen publicly in 2004.

A lemon Daytona. The circa 1970 Ref. 6264 Paul Newman Lemon is said to be the only 14-carat yellow gold example inside the 2.3 million serial range. Both claims are the collection's own research.

No record to beat. The report states no other 3830 has appeared at auction, and both lots are published as exceeding CHF 1m. A lot with no comparable has no price history to bid against.

Four more carry published ranges

The Stelline tops them. A Ref. 6062 Stelline in 18-carat yellow gold is estimated at CHF 600,000 to 1,200,000. Its ceiling matches the two headline lots' floor.

Three at a quarter-million. The Prouds-signed 3525 Bariletto, the pink gold 3335 with a Monetti dial and the steel 6239 Musketeer are each estimated at CHF 250,000 to 500,000.

Ten have no figure. Six of the sixteen lots carry published estimates and ten do not. The six add to CHF 3,350,000 at their floors, on Carat Capital's addition.

What to watch

  • Phillips' XXIV catalogueWhether the remaining ten Papaleo lots carry estimates and what they add to the sale's published floor.
  • 7 and 8 November, GenevaWhether either million-franc lot sells and at what multiple of CHF 1,000,000.
  • The touring scheduleWhether the six-city tour produces a revised estimate on the Ref. 3830 before the sale.

The story so far

  1. A Patek Philippe split-seconds carries a CHF 4m upper estimate at the same sale
  2. F.P. Journe Resonance no. 022 goes to the same sale at CHF 500,000 to 1,000,000
  3. Four Rolex Daytonas made GBP 37.3m at Phillips in London

Go deeper

What would change this call

A comparable. The case for both million-franc lots rests on the absence of evidence rather than on any price: no other Ref. 3830 is recorded at auction, and no other 14-carat Paul Newman Lemon is recorded in that serial band. If one surfaces between now and 7 November, in a private sale, a dealer's window or another house's catalogue, the uniqueness claim weakens and with it the estimate's basis. The reverse also holds for the sale as a whole: the ten unestimated lots could change the published floor materially in either direction when the full catalogue appears, and until it does the CHF 3,350,000 above is a partial figure and labelled as one.

How a condition claim sets a Rolex estimate

Vintage Rolex chronographs are priced on a small number of physical facts rather than on the model name. The first is case geometry: a case that has been polished loses the sharp edges and the original lug profile, and because metal cannot be put back, an unpolished case is the one thing in the description that cannot be restored or faked by work. The second is the dial, where a specific manufacturing variant such as the exotic dial collectors call Paul Newman commands a multiple of the same reference with a standard dial. The third is the retailer signature, because a dial co-signed by a period retailer such as Verga in Milan or Prouds in Australia narrows a watch to a single distribution channel in a single year and makes its history checkable. The fourth is metal, and specifically the rare ones: a 14-carat gold case on a reference normally made in 18-carat or steel is a small-batch decision by the factory that produced very few examples. Stack three or four of those facts on one watch and the result is a lot with no comparable, which is exactly the position Phillips describes for the Ref. 3830 and the Ref. 6264 here. An estimate on such a lot is not an extrapolation from past results, because there are none; it is a judgement about how many bidders will accept the uniqueness claim, which is why a house publishes it as exceeding a round number rather than as a range.

Method

One source carries this consignment and the article says so. JCK's report was fetched direct with a browser user agent, 200, 112,424 bytes, and its own datePublished field reads 2026-09-30, read off the page rather than assumed from when the item reached this desk. Every figure printed here was grepped in that saved file before the sentence was written: 16 watches two hits, 70-piece two, CHF 1,000,000 one, 3830 two, 6264 two, 6062 thirteen, 600,000 one, the string 250,000 and 500,000 one, Nov. 7 one, XXIV two, 2.3 million one and 30 mm one. The quotation attributed to Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo was read in that same file and is six words as printed. Phillips' own catalogue was not reached for this item, so no figure here is corroborated by the house directly, and both uniqueness claims are attributed to the collection's research in the article's own text because that is how the report attributes them. The 22.9% share and the CHF 3,350,000 floor are Carat Capital's arithmetic and are labelled where they appear. No dollar figure is printed as a price: the source's own conversion of CHF 1,000,000 to nearly $1.2 million is quoted as the source's and nothing is converted here. Archive check, read rather than counted: a search of the built site for Papaleo, Geneva Watch Auction, Ref. 3830 and 6264 returns seven files and every one was opened. Two are prior coverage of this same sale. The 19 July piece covers the F.P. JOURNE RESONANCE consignment and the 18 September piece covers the PATEK PHILIPPE SPLIT-SECONDS lot, both into Geneva Watch Auction XXIV; this item covers the PUCCI PAPALEO ROLEX consignment announced 30 September, and none of the three shares a lot or a headline figure with either other. Same sale, different consignment and different lots, so the verdict is ADVANCED, not repeat, and both earlier pieces are cited rather than restated. The 30 September Daytona piece is a different house sale, in London, and already concluded.

Sources1