Carat^Capital
Carat Capital · The trade paper of the jewelry world · Est. MMXXVI · Free to read
Desk D—06 · Filed Daily

Retail & Technologythe counter, rebuilt for the next generation

Where the industry meets its customer — and its future. The retail desk covers lab-grown economics, e-commerce and live-selling, traceability tech, AI in the showroom, and the store formats winning buyers who are 24, online at midnight, and allergic to velvet ropes.

$727Lab-grown 1ct, wholesale
~20%Of sales now online
24Median first-buyer age
Plate D-06 — GAOSORUELA · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia CommonsCC

The briefing — what's moving now

Updated each edition
B-01

Lab-grown settles into its true business model

At an 86% discount to natural, LGD is no longer a diamond substitute — it's a fashion-jewelry category with diamond optics. Margins migrate from the stone to the brand and the volume.

Economics · Global
B-02

Live selling jumps the Pacific

The livestream counter that built China's jewelry e-commerce is landing in the West — TikTok gem sales, WhatsApp private clienteling, and jewelers becoming broadcasters.

Channels · Shenzhen
B-03

Traceability tech grows teeth

Blockchain provenance, ledgers, and assay-office digital passports move from pilot to mandate as regulation and retailer policy converge. The tech stack becomes a condition of shelf space.

Technology · London

Talk like the trade — the working vocabulary

The trade's terms, plainly told
Lab-grown (LGD)Term

Diamonds grown in weeks by HPHT or CVD — chemically identical to mined, economically a different universe. Their price curve is a technology curve, which is the whole story.

ClientelingPractice

One-to-one retail relationship management — the private-client WhatsApp thread, remembered anniversaries, first calls on new goods. The oldest luxury skill, now run on software.

OmnichannelConcept

The customer researches at midnight, tries on Saturday, buys by DM on Tuesday. Winning retailers price, stock and staff as one continuous counter across all of it.

Digital product passportRegulation

An EU-led ID standard giving each piece a scannable record of origin, materials and custody. Coming for jewelry the way nutrition labels came for food.

Latest from this desk

Filed by correspondents
S—01

The Apollo Gallery reopens, minus the crown jewels

Nine months after thieves took over $100 million in French royal jewels in a seven-minute raid, the Louvre's Apollo Gallery reopened July 22. The jewels will not return to it. Four suspects are in custody; the stones are still gone.
2026-07-24 · 4 min
S—02

Lab-grown now costs 73% less; naturals win the ring back

A study of appraisal data finds lab-grown diamonds priced 73% below naturals, up from a 27% gap in 2019. As the discount widened, natural stones reclaimed 57% of engagement rings, the reversal grown diamonds were supposed to prevent.
2026-07-24 · 4 min
S—03

Birks trims the loss by 73 percent: a repair year in Montreal

Canada's jeweler of record cut its annual net loss to CAD 3.4 million from CAD 12.8 million, on sales of CAD 205.4 million, up 15.5%, with comparable-store sales up 2.6%. A new mono-brand store lands in Vancouver this fall.
2026-07-23 · 4 min
S—04

Gold up fifty, diamonds down fifty-eight: Luk Fook's split quarter

Retail sales rose 32% in April-June and gold same-store sales gained 50%, but diamond same-store sales fell 17% group-wide and 58% on the mainland. Chow Sang Sang grew 16%. Both chains kept closing stores.
2026-07-22 · 5 min
S—05

Up 8.6%, in fewer boxes: America's half-year at the jewelry counter

US jewelry revenue grew 8.6% in the first half and 13% in June, per Tenoris — but the average ticket rose 19% while unit sales fell. Bracelets led at +14%; lab-grown grew on units, natural diamonds on price.
2026-07-21 · 4 min
S—06

Same-store, plus 39%: Hong Kong's gold counters run hot

Luk Fook's June quarter: retail value +32%, gold product sales +50% same-store — while diamond sales fell 17%, and 58% on the mainland. Chow Sang Sang adds +16%. A mainland VAT change is pushing buyers across the border.
2026-07-21 · 4 min

This desk, on the record — the last eight weeks

Show the chronicle
Retail & Tech This week — July 20

Louvre reopens the Apollo Gallery, minus the crown jewels

The gallery reopened July 22, nine months after the October 2025 heist in which a crew took more than $100M in French royal jewels in about seven minutes. The Louvre will no longer display royal jewellery there, moving surviving pieces to a secure location. Four suspects are in custody; no stones have been recovered, and France has announced a national museum-security plan.

Source — Deseret News
Retail & Tech This week — July 20

Birks narrows its annual loss 73% on sales up 15.5%

FY2026 (ended March 28): net loss CAD 3.4M vs. CAD 12.8M, sales CAD 205.4M, comparable stores +2.6%, lifted by the European Boutique acquisition and Birks-branded jewelry. A mono-brand store opens at Vancouver's Oakridge in fall 2026.

Source — Rapaport
Retail & Tech This week — July 20

Luk Fook: gold same-store +50%, mainland diamonds −58%

April–June retail sales rose 32% y/y (group SSS +39%; HK/Macau +41%, mainland +22%). Gold SSS gained 50% (HK/Macau +55%) while diamond SSS fell 17% group-wide and 58% on the mainland. Net 148 stores closed, leaving 2,857. Chow Sang Sang's retail value rose 16% (SSS +17% China, +30% HK/Macau), with 776 doors after 49 net H1 closures.

Source — Rapaport
Retail & Tech This week — July 20

US jewelry H1: revenue +8.6% on a 19% higher ticket

Tenoris data shows first-half revenue up 8.6% and June up 13%, driven by average purchase prices rising 19–20% while unit sales fell, especially under $1,500. Bracelets led categories at +14%; lab-grown grew double-digit on units while natural diamonds grew single-digit on price.

Source — Tenoris
Retail & Tech Week of July 13

Bezel rejects 38% of submitted Rolexes at authentication

Counterfeits, Frankenwatches, misdescriptions and stolen goods; Omega 13%, Tudor 6%, Cartier 5%, most others 2–3%. Rejected Rolexes are 43% of refused value; Patek 22%. Rolex is 28% of Bezel sales and 34% of wish lists.

Source — WatchPro USA

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