Carat^Capital
Carat Capital · The trade paper of the jewelry world · Est. MMXXVI · Free to read
Desk D—06 · Filed Daily

Retail & Technologythe counter, rebuilt for the next generation

Where the industry meets its customer — and its future. The retail desk covers lab-grown economics, e-commerce and live-selling, traceability tech, AI in the showroom, and the store formats winning buyers who are 24, online at midnight, and allergic to velvet ropes.

$475Lab-grown 1ct, wholesale midpoint
~20%Of sales now online
24Median first-buyer age
PLATE D-06 — THE RETAIL & TECHNOLOGY DESK CC/2026/D06
Engraving — CC graphics deskD—06

The briefing — what's moving now

Updated each edition
B-01

Lab-grown settles into its true business model

At an 86% discount to natural, LGD is no longer a diamond substitute — it's a fashion-jewelry category with diamond optics. Margins migrate from the stone to the brand and the volume.

Economics · Global
B-02

Live selling jumps the Pacific

The livestream counter that built China's jewelry e-commerce is landing in the West — TikTok gem sales, WhatsApp private clienteling, and jewelers becoming broadcasters.

Channels · Shenzhen
B-03

Traceability tech grows teeth

Blockchain provenance, ledgers, and assay-office digital passports move from pilot to mandate as regulation and retailer policy converge. The tech stack becomes a condition of shelf space.

Technology · London

Talk like the trade — the working vocabulary

The trade's terms, plainly told
Lab-grown (LGD)Term

Diamonds grown in weeks by HPHT or CVD — chemically identical to mined, economically a different universe. Their price curve is a technology curve, which is the whole story.

ClientelingPractice

One-to-one retail relationship management — the private-client WhatsApp thread, remembered anniversaries, first calls on new goods. The oldest luxury skill, now run on software.

OmnichannelConcept

The customer researches at midnight, tries on Saturday, buys by DM on Tuesday. Winning retailers price, stock and staff as one continuous counter across all of it.

Digital product passportRegulation

An EU-led ID standard giving each piece a scannable record of origin, materials and custody. Coming for jewelry the way nutrition labels came for food.

Latest from this desk

Filed by correspondents
S—01

Bain puts US holiday sales above $1 trillion, up 4.5%

McKinsey finds 43% of shoppers planning to spend less on jewelry and 18% planning to spend more. Only 10% name jewelry or accessories as a top category.
2026-09-07 · 2 min
S—02

Edge counts August jewelry sales up 5%, units down 8%

The average retail sale rose 14% against August 2025. Diamond jewelry carried the month, its dollars up 8% on 9% fewer units, while sterling silver and alternative metals lost both.
2026-09-06 · 2 min
S—03

SEC sues Lugano ex-CEO over $1bn of fictitious revenue

The complaint, filed 31 August in California, covers conduct from 2021 to 2025. A restatement later cut Lugano's net assets at acquisition from $179 million to $5 million.
2026-09-05 · 2 min
S—04

Two CEOs and a president: Kering rewires Pomellato, DoDo and its Italian holding

Charlotte Fournet takes Pomellato and Krizia Cucurachi takes DoDo on 15 September, both reporting to Jean-Marc Duplaix. Sabina Belli, Pomellato's chief since 2015, becomes president of Kering Italia.
2026-09-02 · 4 min
S—05

1,600 square feet at South Coast Plaza: Jessica McCormack takes the West Coast

The London jeweller's second US store opened on 28 August at 3333 Bristol Street, Costa Mesa, in a Jewel Court that already holds Cartier, Chopard, Piaget and Harry Winston. Rodeo Drive follows in 2027.
2026-09-02 · 3 min
S—06

RMB 3.641 billion, down 20.79%: Chow Tai Seng's margin rose anyway

Revenue fell 20.79% and net profit 24.24% in the six months to 30 June. Gross margin rose 6.61 points to 36.95%, and second-quarter profit fell 54.2%.
2026-09-01 · 4 min

This desk, on the record — the last eight weeks

Show the chronicle
Retail & Tech This week - August 17 to September 7

Bain forecasts US holiday sales above $1 trillion on 4.5% growth, while McKinsey finds 43% of shoppers planning to spend less on jewelry

Bain's release of 3 September 2026 forecasts United States retail sales for November and December rising 4.5% year on year, against the 3.5% recorded in the 2025 season, taking the season above $1 trillion for the first time. More than half of the nominal growth is inflation. Nonstore retail is forecast to grow 9% and to generate 60% of overall sales growth, up from 50%. McKinsey's consumer survey, reported by Rapaport on 6 September 2026, finds 43% of consumers planning to spend less on jewelry, 39% the same and 18% more, with only 10% naming jewelry and accessories as a top category and Gen Z selecting it at 18% against 5% of Baby Boomers. PwC has holiday spending slipping 2% and gift budgets down 2% to $708 a consumer.

Source — Bain & Company, 3 September 2026; Rapaport, 6 September 2026
Retail & Tech This week - August 17 to September 7

US independent jewellers took 5% more money in August on 8% fewer units, lifting the average sale 14%

Edge Retail Academy's August 2026 aggregation, reported by JCK on 3 September 2026, compares August 2026 with August 2025. Diamond jewellery: dollars up 8%, units down 9%, average sale up 18%. Coloured stones and pearls: dollars up 4%, units down 14%, average sale up 21%. Sterling silver and alternative metals: dollars down 5%, units down 19%, average sale up 17%, the only category where price failed to cover the volume loss. Units fell in every category. Edge publishes no store count, panel size or dollar total with these percentages, and the panel excludes chains and online-only sellers. Carat Capital's 26 July reading covered the first half of 2026 and June; this covers August.

Source — Edge Retail Academy via JCK, 3 September 2026
Retail & Tech This week - August 17 to September 7

Kering names Charlotte Fournet to Pomellato and Krizia Cucurachi to DoDo from 15 September, and moves Sabina Belli to the presidency of Kering Italia

Kering announced on 1 September 2026 that Charlotte Fournet becomes chief executive of Pomellato and Krizia Cucurachi chief executive of DoDo, both effective 15 September 2026, both reporting to Jean-Marc Duplaix, the group chief operating officer who also heads the jewellery division created in March 2026. On the same date Sabina Belli, chief executive of Pomellato since 2015, becomes president of Kering Italia. Fournet joined Saint Laurent in 2014, Gucci in 2019 and Bottega Veneta in 2020, with fourteen years in luxury merchandising and product strategy; her stated brief is elevated branding, store productivity and wider distribution. Set against this paper's own reporting of 29 July 2026: Kering's jewellery houses, Boucheron, Pomellato, Qeelin and DoDo, lifted first-half revenue to 521 million euros, up 14% as reported and 20% comparable, with operating income doubling to 32 million euros, while group revenue fell 3% to 7.22 billion euros. No financial scope has been published for the Kering Italia presidency and none is estimated here.

Source — National Jeweler, JCK, WWD and Business of Fashion, all 1 September 2026; Kering first-half 2026 figures as reported by Carat Capital, 29 July 2026.
Retail & Tech This week - August 17 to September 7

Jessica McCormack opens a 1,600 square foot second US store at South Coast Plaza, with Rodeo Drive announced for 2027

Jessica McCormack opened a 1,600 square foot boutique at South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol Street, Costa Mesa, on 28 August 2026. It is the London house's second store in the United States and its first on the West Coast; the first, on Madison Avenue in New York, opened in 2025, and a third is planned for Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, in 2027. The mall's Jewel Court already holds Buccellati, Cartier, Chopard, Piaget, Harry Winston and David Yurman. No revenue, unit-economics or lease figure has been published for the store and none is estimated here.

Source — JCK, 1 September 2026; FashionNetwork USA; National Jeweler; Orange Coast magazine.
Retail & Tech This week - August 17 to September 7

Chow Tai Seng's half-year revenue falls 20.79% to RMB 3.641 billion and net profit 24.24% to RMB 450 million, while gross margin rises 6.61 points

Chow Tai Seng (Shenzhen 002867) reported results for the six months to 30 June 2026 on the evening of 25 August 2026: revenue RMB 3.641 billion, down 20.79%; net profit attributable to shareholders RMB 450 million, down 24.24%; profit excluding exceptional items RMB 436 million, down 24.95%; gross margin 36.95% against 30.34%, a rise of 6.61 percentage points; proposed interim distribution RMB 174 million. Second quarter alone: revenue RMB 1.69 billion, down 12.3%, and net profit RMB 156 million, down 54.2%, a fall more than twice the six-month rate. The company attributes the decline to violent swings in the global gold price putting jewellery consumption under pressure. Applying the reported margin to reported revenue gives gross profit of roughly RMB 1.345 billion against roughly RMB 1.394 billion a year earlier: the percentage rose and the money fell. Set against Chow Sang Sang's half to the same date, reported by this paper on 29 August at HK$12.88 billion of revenue (up 17%) and HK$2.15 billion of profit (up 139%), the same six months and the same metal produced opposite results.

Source — Sina Finance, Eastmoney and Guandian, all 25 August 2026, reporting Chow Tai Seng's half-year release; Carat Capital, 29 August 2026

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