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Carat Capital · The trade paper of the jewelry world · Est. MMXXVI · Free to read
The Paper · Updated 24 Jul 2026

The RecordEight weeks of the trade, kept properly

Eight weeks of the trade, kept the way a ledger should be kept — dated, sourced, and in one place. New entries are added at the top each week; the quarter's running numbers live in the Almanac below.

This week — July 20

the week's ledger
Diamonds

De Beers Q2 output jumps 88% as the realised price falls 32%

Second-quarter rough production reached 7.8M ct (H1 14.91M, +46%), led by Botswana +107% to 5.5M ct, but the average price fell 32% to $105/ct and the rough index 16%. Q2 revenue fell 44% to $665M. Full-year guidance holds at 21–26M ct with a Venetia pause in H2; Anglo American is progressing a sale, with a Gareth Penny consortium reported as front-runner.

Source — Mining Weekly / JCK
Gold & Metals

Gold defends $4,000 as Brent tops $100 and hike odds hit 80%

Spot gold held near $4,028 on July 24, just above the $4,000 floor, after sliding from a two-week peak above $4,160. Brent crude cleared $100 and the 10-year yield reached 4.70%; Fed-funds futures now imply an 80% chance of a September rate rise, up from 68% a week earlier. Roughly 45% of surveyed central banks plan to add gold.

Source — FXLeaders / Yahoo Finance
Retail & Tech

Louvre reopens the Apollo Gallery, minus the crown jewels

The gallery reopened July 22, nine months after the October 2025 heist in which a crew took more than $100M in French royal jewels in about seven minutes. The Louvre will no longer display royal jewellery there, moving surviving pieces to a secure location. Four suspects are in custody; no stones have been recovered, and France has announced a national museum-security plan.

Source — Deseret News
Gemstones

Gemfields' higher-quality emerald auction takes $26.8M

The London sale (4–21 May, reported this week) cleared 36 of 37 lots — 97% by number, 99% by weight — at an average $146.08/ct. Managing director Adrian Banks called demand stable but cautious; a ~10% rupee slide since September 2025 pressured Indian cutters. The company, which posted a $51M loss for 2025, is pacing its ruby offering.

Source — National Jeweler
Auctions

Sotheby's New York High Jewelry makes $31.4M, 95% sold

The June 13 sale was led by a Graff 35-ct D-colour diamond ring at $3.2M, a Marcus & Co. sautoir with a 9.6-ct Burmese ruby and a 2.02-ct fancy vivid blue diamond at $1.8M each, and an 8.62-ct Colombian emerald JAR ring at $1.6M. Phillips withdrew a 3.03-ct fancy intense pink (est. $1.2–1.6M) after bids missed the reserve.

Source — JCK
Diamonds

A 50% tariff on Canadian goods names the diamond counter

Effective August 19 under Section 338 of the Tariff Act of 1930, the 50% duty covers six jewelry HTS codes including loose polished diamonds (7102.39.00), stacks on existing tariffs and overrides USMCA duty-free treatment, per the JVC. Rough diamonds are exempt — Canadian rough cut abroad enters under the cutting country's rate.

Source — National Jeweler
Gemstones

USTR proposes 12.5% on colored stones and pearls from ~46 countries

The expedited Section 301 investigation's preliminary findings cover India, Thailand, Sri Lanka and Australia among others, with resolution expected by end-July. A second review spans 16 partners; Brazil's definitive 25% on loose polished color is in force. The temporary 10% global surcharge expires July 24.

Source — Rapaport
Watches

Swatch Group grows 9% at constant currency, earns half a percent

H1 revenue CHF 3.12B (+2% reported), watches and jewelry CHF 2.95B; US +27%, Japan +20%, Spain +28%, China incl. HK/Macau +9%. Net profit fell 6% to CHF 16M. The group expects a stronger second half on May–July momentum.

Source — Rapaport
Gold & Metals

Gold rejects the two-week peak as oil reprices the Fed

Spot slipped 0.6% to $4,103.39 Thursday morning from Wednesday's $4,165.87 high; oil hit a six-week high, two-year yields a 17-month high, and CME FedWatch put 77% odds on a September hike. Silver $58.90 (−1.3%), platinum $1,628.63, palladium $1,274.96.

Source — Reuters
Retail & Tech

Birks narrows its annual loss 73% on sales up 15.5%

FY2026 (ended March 28): net loss CAD 3.4M vs. CAD 12.8M, sales CAD 205.4M, comparable stores +2.6%, lifted by the European Boutique acquisition and Birks-branded jewelry. A mono-brand store opens at Vancouver's Oakridge in fall 2026.

Source — Rapaport
Gold & Metals

Gold's $144 Tuesday ends the quiet week early

Kitco's late-Tuesday board read $4,131 (+1.33%) after a $3,998.80–$4,142.70 session — nearly $144 low to high and roughly $130 above Monday's $4,000.30 close. Silver touched $60.11 (settling 59.64, +1.67%), platinum added 2.28% to $1,660, palladium 2.85% to $1,297. Kitco credited short covering and renewed haven demand tied to the US-Iran conflict, through a firmer dollar and rising yields.

Source — Kitco
Retail & Tech

Luk Fook: gold same-store +50%, mainland diamonds −58%

April–June retail sales rose 32% y/y (group SSS +39%; HK/Macau +41%, mainland +22%). Gold SSS gained 50% (HK/Macau +55%) while diamond SSS fell 17% group-wide and 58% on the mainland. Net 148 stores closed, leaving 2,857. Chow Sang Sang's retail value rose 16% (SSS +17% China, +30% HK/Macau), with 776 doors after 49 net H1 closures.

Source — Rapaport
Gemstones

US stacks a 35% tariff on Brazilian polished; rough rides free

A 25% Section 301 tariff effective 12:01 a.m. July 23 layers on the existing 10% for 35% total on cut/polished stones and finished jewelry from Brazil; rough (HTS 7103.10.20/.40) and unwrought precious metals are exempt. A pending 12.5% forced-labor duty would take the stack to 37.5%. JVC's Sara Yood called the metals carve-out broad; polished gets no relief.

Source — National Jeweler
Diamonds

The Knot: 61% of 2025's couples chose lab-grown centers

The 2026 Real Weddings study found 61% of engagement rings for couples married in 2025 carried lab-grown center stones. Lab-grown wholesale fell 14–15% y/y in Q1 2026; a premium 1ct retails $800–1,200. Analyst Sherry Smith argues the market is bifurcated — value versus luxury — rather than either/or.

Source — National Jeweler / The Knot
Diamonds

NUM condemns Venetia pause: 1,214 jobs in consultation

The National Union of Mineworkers formally condemned De Beers' two-year Venetia halt — 1,134 mine employees plus 80 DBSSSA staff in Section 189A consultation — accusing the company of presenting a predetermined decision and proposing executive cost reviews, retraining and top-down cuts instead. Chief negotiator Masibulele Naki: workers are not disposable tools.

Source — Rapaport
Watches

Swiss exports snap back 11.2% in June

The FH reported June exports of CHF 2.4 billion on 1.3 million pieces (+11.7% volume) — the strongest month of 2026 after April's −16.6% and May's +0.4%. The US took CHF 349M (+12.7%), France doubled to CHF 250M (+103.5%), and the CHF 200–500 band grew 54.1% while CHF 500–3,000 fell 4.7%. H1 stands at CHF 12.8B, −0.7%.

Source — FH / swissinfo
Diamonds

Rio Tinto's last carats: Diavik processes its remnants

With the Northwest Territories mine closed since March, Q2 yielded 33,000 carats from remaining surface ore, down 97%. H1 output fell 51% to 1.1 million carats; final sales run through end-2026, completing Rio Tinto's exit from diamond mining after Argyle (2020) and Fort à la Corne (2023). Angola exploration continues.

Source — Rapaport
Diamonds

Venetia pause enters Section 189A: 1,214 positions

The NUM said De Beers' two-year production halt places 1,134 permanent Venetia workers and 80 DBSSSA staff into large-scale retrenchment consultation, demanding reviews of executive costs, retraining, and alternatives to dismissal. The pause was announced July 13 as a cash-preservation measure.

Source — Rapaport / Bloomberg
Retail & Tech

US jewelry H1: revenue +8.6% on a 19% higher ticket

Tenoris data shows first-half revenue up 8.6% and June up 13%, driven by average purchase prices rising 19–20% while unit sales fell, especially under $1,500. Bracelets led categories at +14%; lab-grown grew double-digit on units while natural diamonds grew single-digit on price.

Source — Tenoris
Gold & Metals

The $4,000 floor survives its third test

Spot gold closed Friday 17 July at $4,017.30, up $42.10 on the day, after touching $3,959.30 — within five dollars of the triple bottom at $3,964. Monday opened at $4,018.20 with December hike odds near 82%, Brent at $90.40 and the Fed's July 28–29 meeting ahead. Silver led the complex at $56.76, +1.67%.

Source — Kitco / FX Leaders
Diamonds

India's June exports jump 26.5% — the factory restarts

Gross gems and jewellery exports reached $2,212.6M in June per GJEPC data: gold jewellery +54.5% to $1,087.7M, cut-and-polished diamonds +8.7% to $846.7M. The quarter stayed flat (+0.04% at $6,612.2M) with polished value −4.1% on volume +8.9% — $681.70 a carat; rough imports −32.4% by value.

Source — GJEPC / IANS
Diamonds

Botswana keeps all three doors open on the De Beers sale

Minister Moeti Mohwasa told parliament on 17 July that the state's 15% carries 'complete freedom': partner with Anglo's preferred bidder — the Gareth Penny-led Global Diamond Consortium, with a Qatari fund and Nir Livnat — pre-empt alone, or bid with a third party. Two bidders remain from six; close eyed by Q4.

Source — Reuters / Mining Weekly
Gemstones

Gemfields prices the ruby middle market at $66.30

The miner's first 'Trade Select' auction — a broader mix of Mozambique ruby qualities plus debut sapphire categories — sold 348,409 of 374,008 carats (93.2%) for $23.1M, 82 of 89 lots. May's higher-quality emerald sale made $26.8M at $146.08/ct with buyers cautious and the rupee ~10% weaker since September.

Source — Gemfields / Sharecast
Diamonds

Alrosa certifies 29.8M carats carbon-neutral — for the second year

TÜV Austria verified the Russian miner's operations and full 2025 production as carbon-neutral: footprint −1.18 kg CO2e per carat (60% better), facilities absorbing 126,000 tonnes more CO2 than emitted, 76% renewable electricity. G7 import restrictions still bar the goods from Western markets.

Source — Rapaport

Week of July 13

the week's ledger
Gold & Metals

Gold logs its worst week in six — during a war

Spot closed 17 July at $3,985.80, down ~3.4% on the week as a sixth day of strikes on Iran drove oil to one-month highs and CME December hike odds to 73%; Dallas Fed's Logan called for a hike. Silver $55.20; platinum $1,599; palladium $1,244.

Source — USAGOLD / CNBC / Yahoo Finance
Auctions

First-ever delivered F.P. Journe Résonance consigned to Phillips Geneva XXIV

No. 022/99R — 38mm platinum, one owner since 1999, serial chosen to match his birth date — estimated CHF 500,000–1M for 7–8 Nov. Phillips' three historic Résonance sales in 2026 total $23M+, incl. Souscription No. 007 at $13.9M.

Source — WatchPro
Watches

Audemars Piguet UK: sales +29% to £105M, profit down 3%

2025 accounts show £7.8M operating profit on £105M sales; Manchester AP House booked £7.4M sales and a £738K loss in year one; UK property and fittings rose from £2.8M to £17.6M. Clifton Street AP House opened Feb 2026.

Source — WatchPro
Retail & Tech

Bezel rejects 38% of submitted Rolexes at authentication

Counterfeits, Frankenwatches, misdescriptions and stolen goods; Omega 13%, Tudor 6%, Cartier 5%, most others 2–3%. Rejected Rolexes are 43% of refused value; Patek 22%. Rolex is 28% of Bezel sales and 34% of wish lists.

Source — WatchPro USA
Gemstones

Brandee Dallow starts as ICA chief executive

Effective 6 July; the 1984-founded International Colored Gemstone Association counts ~700 members in 47 countries. Dallow arrives via De Beers, Rio Tinto Diamonds, RJC, Grandview Klein and the Women's Jewelry Association.

Source — The Centurion / IDEX
Diamonds

Anglo names Penny's Global Diamond Consortium preferred bidder for De Beers

Announced to Botswana's parliament 17 July by minister Moeti Mohwasa; three shortlisted bidders; consortium plans Angola and Namibia as partners; Botswana (15%) weighs matching rights; close eyed Q4 2026. De Beers carried at $4.9B after $3.5B impairments.

Source — Rapaport / Bloomberg / Miningmx
Retail & Tech

India–UK trade pact enters force; jewelry goes duty-free both ways

CETA effective 15 July; UK scraps duties on 96.8% of tariff lines (97.7% of trade value); first zero-duty gold, silver and diamond jewelry consignments shipped 16 July. India→UK goods exports $13.44B in FY25–26; 900+ jewelry firms expected to benefit.

Source — Al Jazeera / AajTak / Outlook Business
Watches

Rolex CPO premium compresses to 22.6% median as program scales

Morgan Stanley × WatchCharts: launch-era ~40% premium now 22.6% median; Q2 program sales $186M; 157 of 712 retailers enrolled; top-three inventory share down from 63% to 48%; median participating retailer's H1 CPO revenue $899k, from $578k.

Source — WatchPro / Morgan Stanley–WatchCharts
Auctions

Sotheby's watch sales run 64% ahead at the half; 90% sell-through

Latest sale: 1,850 bidders from 60 countries; 45% of lots beat high estimates (double y/y); sales at 200%+ of combined low estimates. Recent prints: Paul Newman 6263 $1.14M, Journe Vagabondage II 'Brady' $1.02M, Brette Artisans Rose $512k.

Source — WatchPro (Geoff Hess interview)
Diamonds

Ekati goes to receivership; Canada's first diamond mine will close

B.C. court order 14 July at the NWT government's request; PwC receiver; production stops mid-August after an eight-week sale found no buyer. ~340 workers remain (2024: 700 + 542 contractors); C$326M reclamation security shielded; last sale C$27.4M, C$2M short.

Source — Cabin Radio / Rapaport / CBC
Diamonds

Angola's Endiama bids for all of Anglo's 85% of De Beers

Confirmed by CEO Ganga Júnior; De Beers carried at $4.9B after $3.5B of impairments, 17 months into Anglo's exit. Botswana (15%) holds the right to match; President Boko calls it a matter of economic sovereignty; ex-De Beers executive groups also bidding.

Source — Bloomberg / Mining Technology
Diamonds

Lab-grown Q2 wholesale: −13% overall, +1% at one carat

Edahn Golan's Q2 price list: 2ct rounds −20%, squares −21% (some VVS ranges −25%+), fancies −17%, 1.50–1.99ct −11%; one-carat rounds the only riser at +1%. Rough LGD prices rising — pass-through to polished is the next-quarter question.

Source — INSTORE / Edahn Golan
Gold & Metals

War week on the metals tape

Fifth straight day of US strikes on Iranian sites with the Strait of Hormuz closed: gold fades from a 4,068.90 open to 4,041.10 Thursday (+21.8% YTD); silver 57.07, −16.8% on the month, +53.1% on the year; platinum 1,634.90.

Source — Yahoo Finance / Trading Economics
Retail & Tech

June US retail: +0.2% to $768.6B, below forecast

Census advance estimate; tax-refund tailwinds faded, online led category gains. Jewelry's H2 setup: a deliberate consumer, gold's 21.8% YTD climb as the value script.

Source — Census / Rapaport / AP
Watches

Richemont prints a 20 percent quarter

Q1 to June 30: group sales €6.3B, +20% constant currency (+17% actual); Americas +27% to €1.7B; direct retail +24%; specialist watchmakers return to growth at +8% to €873M after a -4% FY26.

Source — WatchPro / Richemont
Diamonds

Vietnam's certificate scandal goes global

P-Lab ex-director Dang Ngoc Thao among 22 charged over a ring that smuggled 28,000+ diamonds ($10.65M, 141 shipments since 2024) into Vietnam — allegedly swapping GIA inscriptions for P-Lab certificates. PNJ offers free re-certification.

Source — Tuoi Tre / Bloomberg / SCMP
Auctions

An $8.9 billion auction half

H1 2026: Christie's $4.5B total (public auctions +71%, 91% sell-through, luxury $539M +15%); Sotheby's $4.4B with a record $826M in private sales (+58%). Younger buyers' average watch spend +60% YoY to $129,000.

Source — The Art Newspaper
Watches

Cartier leads the pre-owned turn

June ChronoPulse: Cartier's secondary-market heat builds 3.5× faster than any tracked brand (+5.9% MoM, ~+10% over six months); 10 of 13 brands up in June, all 13 positive over the half; pre-owned Cartier still ~28.1% under retail.

Source — Chrono24 / WatchPro
Gemstones

Pomellato's Stile Libero tape

65-piece high jewelry collection: Mandala Chromia necklace with 99 fancy-cut sapphires (~45ct), Drops of Paraíba choker (21 pear Paraíbas, 20.15ct), Ipnotica earrings with 540 diamonds, openwork with gold-lace artisan Sara Bran.

Source — National Jeweler
Diamonds

Karowe's tenth thousand-carat stone

July 13: Lucara recovers a 1,305.4ct white gem diamond, unbroken, via XRT sorting — the tenth 1,000ct-plus stone in the mine's history (Motswedi 2,488ct, Lesedi La Rona 1,109ct). No other mine has produced one.

Source — Lucara / Rapaport
Diamonds

Dubai posts a record $41.7B trade

2025 diamond trade up 16% to $41.7B on 359.5M carats (+43%) — first simultaneous value and volume records; polished +25% to $18.7B; colored gemstones +48% to a record $1.1B.

Source — Rapaport / DMCC
Diamonds

Mumbai takes the WFDB gavel

Bharat Diamond Bourse VP Mehul Shah wins the World Federation of Diamond Bourses presidency in a three-way Singapore vote over Dubai's Ahmed Bin Sulayem and Shanghai's Lin Qiang, succeeding Yoram Dvash.

Source — Rapaport
Watches

WoS is majority-American for the first time

FY26 revenue +11% to $2.44B; US sales +18% to $1.24B — over half of group revenue and profit. Guidance: +5–10% for FY27. Results land a day after news of rebuffed takeover approaches.

Source — Rapaport / JCK
Gemstones

Couture week's monumental tape

Boucheron shows a 1,500ct-plus morganite necklace (~3,200 workshop hours); Messika sets the 20.46ct Okavango Blue on a 500-diamond rivière; Chanel debuts 85 pieces; Graff's 12 butterfly brooches convert to pendants.

Source — Natural Diamond Council
Gold & Metals

One soft CPI print turns the tape

July 14: gold +1.8% to $4,072.60, silver +2.4% to $58.88, platinum +2.4% to $1,636, palladium +4.1% — the whole board rallies on cooler June inflation a day after gold's $3,985.70 intraday stab.

Source — Kitco / Yahoo Finance
Diamonds

Guyana's diggers switch to gold

H1 diamond exports fall 70–80% YoY as alluvial miners re-rig for bullion; 85% of Guyana's rough value sits in stones of 0.50ct and under — supply leaving the exact category leading the recovery.

Source — IDEX Online
Auctions

Pearls run the table at Bonhams London

All top-10 lots beat high estimates July 8; David Morris pearl-and-diamond necklace makes $54,894, a natural pearl strand roughly 4× its estimate, a three-stone ring 3.5×.

Source — Rapaport
Gemstones

A 21-year first at the Halstead Grant

Navajo silversmith Enoch Platero (Enoch Michael) becomes the first traditional Native American jewelry artist to win the emerging-jeweler award — $7,500 cash plus supplies, judged on a full business plan.

Source — PRWeb / JCK
Retail & Tech

Watch liquidity goes instant

Arena Club launches mystery 'Time Boxes' (published odds, 90% instant buy-back; Rolex, Patek, AP, Cartier) while The Heritage Club adds AI photo-to-offer valuations with 30–60-day repurchase in the UAE.

Source — WatchPro
Diamonds

De Beers cuts the book — and pauses Venetia for two years

First sale under the new contract brings official rough prices down from 5–50% above market to near-market levels, sold to a roster cut from ~70 to 45–50 sightholders. Days later De Beers announces a two-year production pause at Venetia — 4,400 jobs at risk, >40% of South Africa's output.

Source — Bloomberg / Rapaport
Gold & Metals

Silver's air pocket: −10.9% in a month

US–Iran escalation and Fed nerves knock silver to ~$57–58 (from $70+ in late June), platinum to $1,595 (−45% from January's record), and push gold as low as $3,985.70 intraday before it steadies near $4,000.

Source — Kitco / Yahoo Finance
Watches

Watches of Switzerland rebuffs takeover interest

Reuters: private equity and strategic buyers held talks in recent months; no formal offer. Shares +55% YTD to £7.50 (£1.75B market cap); management wants significantly more. FY26 revenue +11% to £1.8B.

Source — Reuters / WatchPro
Auctions

Joopiter staffs up like a major house

Pharrell Williams' auction platform launches a standalone watch division under Nate Borgelt, ex-head of watches for Bonhams Americas and a specialist in the $24M Graves Supercomplication sale.

Source — National Jeweler / WWD
Diamonds

De Beers opens the July sight ready to realign rough prices

The miner arrives in Gaborone prepared to cut official book prices or widen discounted deals — sightholders put the book 20–30% above market in sub-carat rough. A new sightholder contract takes effect against the backdrop of Anglo American's divestment.

Source — Rapaport
Gold & Metals

Gold camps at the $4,100 line

Bullion consolidates near the World Gold Council's H2 base case (±5% around $4,100) after June 25's $4,001.80 trough; 30-day volatility cools from 50%+ to under 30%.

Source — World Gold Council
Gemstones

ICA's new CEO takes office

Brandee Dallow (ex-De Beers, Rio Tinto Diamonds, RJC) begins as chief executive of the International Colored Gemstone Association on July 6.

Source — The Diamond Press

Week of July 6

the week's ledger
Auctions

Phillips closes a $235M spring — the biggest watch season ever

Combined Geneva–Hong Kong–New York sales top $235M at a 99.8% sell-through across 937 lots; an F.P. Journe Souscription Résonance makes $13.9M in New York, a record for any independent watchmaker.

Source — WatchPro
Retail & Tech

US independents post a fewer-better-dearer May

Independent jewelers' sales rose 12% YoY on a 22% higher average ticket with 9% fewer units; diamond average prices +21%.

Source — The Diamond Press

Week of June 29

the week's ledger
Diamonds

Supply discipline turns physical

Alrosa suspends Severalmaz mining for ~3 months from July 1; Storm Mountain puts Lesotho's Kao mine on care and maintenance (~750 workers); Petra's Finsch enters business rescue (~1,800 jobs).

Source — The Diamond Press
Gold & Metals

Gold survives its $4,000 test

Spot touches $4,001.80 on June 25 — the H1 low — and holds the level; YTD the metal is down ~7% from a $5,405 January 29 peak yet remains a top-performing asset over 12 months.

Source — World Gold Council

Week of June 22

the week's ledger
Diamonds

Russia draws the hardest lab-grown line yet

From September 1, lab-grown jewelry tags must read 'synthetic' — the words 'diamond', grading terms, and descriptors like 'natural' or 'eco-friendly' are banned; weights in grams only.

Source — The Diamond Press
Retail & Tech

Signet steadies, Asia soars

Signet Q1: $1.55B (+0.7%), same-store +1.8%, guidance floor raised to $6.7B. Chow Tai Fook FY: revenue +5% to HK$94.4B, profit +52% to a record HK$9.08B; Luk Fook revenue +29%, profit +89%.

Source — The Diamond Press

Week of June 15

the week's ledger
Watches

Swiss exports eke out +0.4% in May

CHF 2.11B — US +12%, France +57% (logistics hub), UK +25%, China −21%; CHF 200–500 watches +24% while the CHF 500–3,000 middle falls 17%. YTD −3.1%.

Source — FH / Rapaport
Auctions

New York's blue June

Christie's Magnificent Jewels makes $49.7M at 100% sell-through — the 31.62ct Azure Blue at $8.4M. Sotheby's answers with $43.4M at 98%, led by a 10.02ct fancy intense blue at $8.7M.

Source — The Diamond Press

Week of June 8

the week's ledger
Auctions

Estate material outperforms — again

Christie's Stream Family Collection realizes $17.3M at 99% sold; a 49.91ct light green-yellow diamond quadruples its low estimate at $2M.

Source — The Diamond Press
Diamonds

Rough turns a corner

Alrosa logs record May client viewings — double last year, busiest in eight years — with 2–10ct prices up 6–9% since January; TAGS Dubai tender clears 80%.

Source — The Diamond Press

Week of June 1 — Vegas week

the week's ledger
Gemstones

JCK Las Vegas: color claims the counter

The State of the Colored Gemstone Industry panel reports engagement customers choosing sapphire, spinel and garnet first; margins beat diamonds; Tucson 2026 ranked among dealers' best shows ever.

Source — AGTA
Gemstones

The three trends of jewelry week

Marion Fasel's Vegas read: mechanicals (transformable pieces), creative alternatives to gold (beads, cords, small scale), and narrative jewelry as the feature customers pay for.

Source — JCK
Retail & Tech

Pandora widens its lab-grown footprint

Lab-grown collections expand to Spain and Italy via Barcelona and Milan flagships — eight markets globally.

Source — The Diamond Press

Late May

the week's ledger
Diamonds

Who buys diamonds now

De Beers' US study: average natural-diamond spend up 25% to $4,063 vs 2023; 75% of value demand is non-bridal; Gen Z takes 23% of value demand vs 18% of population.

Source — De Beers via The Diamond Press
Retail & Tech

Jewelry leads a €1.44T luxury market

Bain–Altagamma puts 2025 global luxury spending at €1.44T with jewelry the leading category; personal luxury +1% in H1 2026, 2–4% forecast for the year.

Source — Bain / Altagamma

Mid-May

the week's ledger
Auctions

Geneva rewrites the record book

Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction XXIII realizes $96.3M — the highest-grossing watch auction in history — with a Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 at $10.2M and dozens of world records.

Source — Forbes
Watches

Richemont's jewelry engine

FY2026 (ended March 31): group sales €22.4B (+11% constant); Jewellery Maisons €16.5B (+14%) at a 30.5% operating margin; net profit €3.5B (+27%).

Source — Richemont
Diamonds

London Diamond Bourse elects Charlotte Rose

First female president in the bourse's 86-year history — believed the first woman to lead any diamond bourse worldwide.

Source — The Diamond Press
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