Carat^Capital
Carat Capital · The trade paper of the jewelry world · Est. MMXXVI · Free to read
CC/09-06Sunday 6 September 2026The Auctions & Estates Desk · Sale preview
Sale previewAuctions & Estates · CC/09-06

HK$20m ruby earrings lead Sotheby's Hong Kong sale on 17 September

Two pear-shaped Burmese rubies of 5.08 and 5.20 carats top a sale of more than 200 lots. Nine of the ten costliest lots are led by a coloured stone.

PLATE IKey figures
HK$20mTop estimate
10.28 ctTwo Burmese rubies
200+Lots on offer
9 of 10Coloured-stone lots
Source Sotheby's Hong Kong High Jewellery, 17 September 2026 - lots and estimates as published by Rapaport, 3 September 2026
What changed

Colour leads the room. Sotheby's Hong Kong sells more than 200 lots on 17 September. Earrings set with two pear-shaped Burmese rubies, 10.28 carats together, carry the top estimate at HK$20 million.

What it means · The Desk’s View

If you buy coloured stones: this sale is the September benchmark for Burmese ruby and Colombian emerald.

If you consign diamonds: no diamond-led lot reached the published top ten.

What this is not: a price. Estimates are the house's opinion before the room votes.

The article3 sections · 116 words
Table I - The ten costliest lotsEstimates in Hong Kong dollars, as published by Rapaport
LotPrincipal stonesEstimate (HK$)
Ruby and diamond earrings5.08 and 5.20 ct Burmese rubies20m
Burmese ruby ring5.06 ct oval8.8-16m
Paraiba tourmaline ring7.52 ct Brazilian cushion7.8-15.5m
Harry Winston emerald set25.09 ct Colombian emerald8-15m
Harry Winston emerald earrings16.27 and 17.03 ct Colombian7-15m
Mauboussin necklace, circa 1930Burmese rubies and ruby beads9.5-11m
Conch pearl necklace6.4-12.45 mm drop pearls6.5-9.5m
Kashmir sapphire ring20.84 ct sugarloaf cabochon5.5-9.5m
Burmese ruby ring6.05 ct cushion6.3-7.8m
Van Cleef & Arpels necklace72 carved emerald beads4.6-6m
Source Rapaport, 3 September 2026, reporting Sotheby's Hong Kong High Jewellery sale of 17 September 2026. Order is by the top of each estimate, computed by Carat Capital; Rapaport publishes no ranking. The earrings carry a single figure in the source rather than a range.CC/2026/056

IColour carries the ten costliest lots

Diamonds lead nothing. 9 of the 10 costliest lots are led by a coloured stone. The tenth is a conch pearl necklace. Diamonds appear as settings and frames.

Burma supplies four. Four of the 10 are Burmese rubies: the earrings, two rings and a Mauboussin necklace of about 1930.

IIThe estimates leave gaps

One figure, no range. Rapaport gives the earrings a single HK$20 million, where the other nine lots carry ranges. No low estimate for the top lot is published.

No sale total. Neither the house nor Rapaport gives an aggregate estimate for the 200-plus lots. The published ten are a selection, not a whole.

IIIHong Kong sets the September mark

The room matters. Hong Kong is where Asian coloured-stone demand is priced each September. Entry to the published ten is a Van Cleef & Arpels emerald necklace at HK$4.6 million.

The depthMethod, sources, corrections · open what you need
01What would change this call+

The earrings failing to sell, or clearing at the bottom of a range Sotheby's has not yet published. Either would show that Burmese ruby demand is narrower than a catalogue of nine coloured-stone lots implies.

02Why a Burmese ruby prices apart+

Rubies from the Mogok and Mong Hsu deposits in Myanmar carry the colour the trade calls pigeon's blood, and United States import restrictions have limited their movement since 2008. Certified Burmese stones above five carats are scarce and are graded and priced as a separate class from Mozambican and Thai material, which is why origin appears in the lot description before the weight.

03Method · the desk’s arithmetic+

Estimates and carat weights are Rapaport's, published 3 September 2026, reporting Sotheby's Hong Kong High Jewellery sale of 17 September 2026. The South China Morning Post's report of the same sale confirms the lead lot, the estimate and the 200-lot count. The 10.28-carat figure is the sum of the two rubies, 5.08 and 5.20, computed by Carat Capital; the sources give them separately. The ranking in Table I is by the top of each estimate and is also computed here. Rapaport publishes one figure for the earrings rather than a range, no low estimate for that lot, and no aggregate estimate for the sale, so none is stated. The count of nine coloured-stone lots is of the ten lots Rapaport names and is not a count of the whole sale. Dollar equivalents in the source are Rapaport's conversion and are not repeated.

04Sources2 documents
The Morning Brief · free

The trade, filed before the New York open.

Prices, tenders and the one story that moved the industry overnight. Ninety seconds.

Subscribe free →
Clarity, daily.