Auctions & Estates

Seventy carats, no reserve, on the block at Bonhams

A 70-carat diamond necklace of pear, oval and marquise stones carries a top estimate near $50,000 and no reserve when Bonhams sells more than 300 California jewels on July 28, alongside pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff and Boucheron.

By The Auctions Desk

What changed

The arithmetic is the hook. When Bonhams sells its California Jewels auction in Los Angeles on July 28, the marquee lot is a 70-carat diamond necklace of pear, oval and marquise stones estimated at up to $50,000, and offered without reserve.

What it means

  • A 70-carat necklace with no reserve is a dare disguised as a lot, and someone will take it. Watch the hammer against the low estimates rather than the highs, because in a no-reserve room the honest signal is not what the trophy makes but what the ordinary lots hold.

Key figures

Marquee lot70ct diamond necklace, pear/oval/marquise
Estimateup to $50,000, no reserve
1920s necklace7.10ct diamond, to $35,000
Sapphire necklace34.95ct color + 4.20ct diamond, $28,000

Source: On the block · Bonhams California, July 28

The dare in the catalogue

Seventy carats of graded diamond for the price of a single fine solitaire is not a market on the diamonds; it is a market on the setting, the certification and the story.

That is the estate logic of a no-reserve sale. Older mounted pieces, whose individual stones are hard to certify and expensive to break out, trade at a steep discount to the loose-goods price sheet, and a seller who wants a clean, guaranteed sale accepts it.

The estimate is a floor to walk in the door, not a valuation of the carats, and the room, not the book, sets the price.

Marquee lot

Top California estimates · high end

70ct DIAMOND NECKLACE$50k
UNMOUNTED DIAMONDS (to)$50k
1920s 7.10ct NECKLACE$35k
Sapphire + Diamond Necklace$28k

Source: On the block · Bonhams California, July 28

Estate logic

The catalogue runs deeper than one lot.

Bonhams lists more than 300 jewels including a 1920s necklace built around a 7.10-carat diamond at a $35,000 high estimate, a necklace set with 34.95 carats of multicolored sapphires and 4.20 carats of diamonds at $28,000, and three unmounted diamonds estimated between $35,000 and $50,000, with signed pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff and Boucheron threaded through the sale.

Top California estimates · high end
Figure
70ct DIAMOND NECKLACE$50k
UNMOUNTED DIAMONDS (to)$50k
1920s 7.10ct NECKLACE$35k
Sapphire + Diamond Necklace$28k

High estimates, USD thousands. Bonhams California Jewels, July 28. The room, not the book, sets the price. Carat Capital graphics desk.

What the day sale measures

The venue is the point as much as the goods.

A California day sale is where the accessible middle of the jewelry market clears, the estate and secondary material that never reaches a Geneva evening, and it is a fair gauge of what ordinary collectors will pay in a summer when the metal underneath every lot has rarely been dearer.

The story so far

  1. Piaget doubles at Bonhams
  2. Ninety percent sold: the trophy watch market clears the room

Go deeper

Method

High estimates, USD thousands. Bonhams California Jewels, July 28.

Sources2