Carat^Capital
Carat Capital · The trade paper of the jewelry world · Est. MMXXVI · Free to read
CC/09-12Saturday 12 September 2026The Auctions & Estates Desk · Sale preview
Sale previewAuctions & Estates · CC/09-12

Morphy estimates an Oscar Heyman necklace at 40.3% of invoice

The original invoice in the lot's box reads $620,000 against a $150,000 to $250,000 estimate. Morphy offers 357 lots at Denver, Pennsylvania on 24 September.

PLATE IThe number
$250,000
High estimate
Oscar Heyman necklace
$620,0002014 invoice
40.3%Estimate of invoice
850Diamonds
Source Morphy Auctions release, 1 September 2026 · Fine Jewelry & Watches, Denver, Pennsylvania, 24 September 2026
What changed

The invoice is in the box. A 2014 Oscar Heyman necklace returns at Morphy on 24 September, one of 357 lots, with a $150,000 to $250,000 estimate against the $620,000 invoice that travels with it.

What it means · The Desk’s View

If you appraise signed American work: the ceiling here is 40.3% of the 2014 retail invoice, not a premium to it.

If you consign a boxed lot: the original invoice travels with the piece and sets the comparison a bidder makes.

What this is not: a result. The hammer is 12 days out and estimates are not prices.

The article3 sections · 99 words
Table I · The seven published estimatesMorphy Auctions, Fine Jewelry & Watches, 24 September 2026
LotLowHigh
Oscar Heyman fancy-colour diamond necklace$150,000$250,000
Bvlgari Serpenti with Jaeger-LeCoultre secret watch$150,000$250,000
1959 Rolex GMT-Master, ref. 6542, Bakelite bezel$120,000$180,000
Platinum emerald and diamond necklace$70,000$100,000
Platinum graduated diamond necklace, 57.58 ct$60,000$90,000
7.87-carat light brown diamond solitaire ring$50,000$80,000
Rolex Day-Date 40 in 18K yellow gold$50,000$75,000
Source Morphy Auctions' release of 1 September 2026, corroborated lot by lot by JCK on 2 September. The seven total $650,000 at the low and $1,025,000 at the high, Carat Capital's arithmetic. The GMT-Master is published at $120,000 to $180,000 in the release; one secondary summary gave it the same band as the two lead lots, and the release is followed here.CC/2026/061

IThree lots clear six figures

Two share the top. The Oscar Heyman necklace and a Bvlgari Serpenti bracelet watch both carry $150,000 to $250,000.

The Rolex follows. A 1959 GMT-Master with its original red and blue Bakelite bezel is published at $120,000 to $180,000.

IIThe invoice sets the comparison

Forty percent of retail. The high estimate is 40.3% of the $620,000 the necklace sold for in 2014.

Said the other way. The same estimate is 59.7% below the 2014 invoice, and the low estimate is 75.8% below it.

IIIThe counts do not reconcile

Two totals, one necklace. Morphy publishes 850 diamonds at a combined weight of at least 180.15 carats. The four itemised counts sum to 723.

Colour carries the weight. The three colourless groups total 18.99 carats, leaving at least 161.16 for the 571 fancy-colour stones.

The depthMethod, sources, corrections · open what you need
01What would change this call+

A hammer above $620,000. That would make the 2014 invoice a floor for signed Oscar Heyman work rather than a ceiling, and the 40.3% would read as a conservative estimate.

02How an auction estimate is set+

An estimate is a range a specialist expects the hammer to fall inside, set before the sale on comparable results, condition, provenance and the reserve agreed with the consignor. It is not an appraisal and not a retail price. Retail invoices sit above estimates because they carry a maker's margin, a shop's margin and tax that the secondary market does not recover.

03Method · the desk’s arithmetic+

Estimates and lot descriptions come from Morphy Auctions' own release of 1 September 2026, read in full through AuctionDaily's reproduction, and were checked lot by lot against JCK's independent write-up of 2 September; the seven estimates agree in both. Arithmetic, all Carat Capital's: 250,000 divided by 620,000 is 40.32%, so the high estimate is 40.3% OF the 2014 invoice and 59.7% BELOW it; 150,000 divided by 620,000 is 24.19%, so the low estimate is 24.2% of the invoice and 75.8% below it. The seven low estimates sum to $650,000 and the seven high estimates to $1,025,000. On the release's own total weight, the high estimate is $1,388 a carat, the low $833, and the 2014 invoice $3,442. The stone counts do not reconcile in the release itself: 95 plus 21 plus 36 plus 571 is 723, while the release states a total of 850, a gap of 127 stones that is printed here rather than smoothed. The itemised colourless weights, 13.47 plus 2.60 plus 2.93, total 18.99 carats, which leaves at least 161.16 carats for the 571 fancy-colour stones against the stated minimum of 180.15. Archive test, both periods named: the archive's Morphy references are what-to-watch lines in the 4 and 8 September editions, both of which cover other houses' sales and name this one only as a forthcoming date; no article covers this sale, this consignment or Oscar Heyman. New, not a repeat.

04Sources3 documents
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