Watches

£133 million, up 76%: Watches of Switzerland answers its doubters

Statutory pre-tax profit jumped 76% to £133 million ($170 million) for the year — six weeks after the board waved off interest at a reported £1.75 billion. IDEX reports the result has buyers circling again.

By The Movement Desk

What changed

Watches of Switzerland posted a 76% leap in statutory pre-tax annual profit to £133 million, about $170 million, IDEX reported Monday — the hardest number yet in a season when the British retailer has mostly made news for what it declined to do.

What it means

  • The summer's rebuff looked expensive in July and looks cheap in hindsight, which is precisely the sequence a well-advised board wants on the record. The next bid, if it comes, starts from a higher number.

Key figures

STATUTORY PRE-TAX PROFIT£133M — up 76% on the year
APPROACH DECLINED, JULYreported £1.75B valuation
REVENUE BASEmajority United States
EXPORT BAND > CHF 3,000+14.2% in June, per the FH

Source: The ledger · Watches of Switzerland

The number lands

In July the board rebuffed takeover interest that valued the group around £1.75 billion, and Reuters had earlier reported talks with more than one potential bidder. A profit line up three-quarters is the kind of answer a board hopes to give after saying no.

STATUTORY PRE-TAX PROFIT

The barbell, per the FH · June export growth by band

Chf 200–500+54.1%
Above Chf 3,000+14.2%
Under Chf 200+9.9%
Chf 500–3,000, Decline−4.7%

Source: The ledger · Watches of Switzerland

The circling resumes

The result did not end the conversation; by IDEX's account it restarted it.

The report notes fresh speculation about acquisition interest from both private equity and strategic buyers — unsurprising for a Rolex-anchored retailer that now earns the majority of its revenue in the United States, the one large market where June's export table showed steady double-digit growth.

The backdrop makes the print more striking, not less. The federation's own June data shows the CHF 500–3,000 export band — the middle of the market — down 4.7%, while pieces above CHF 3,000 grew 14.2%. Watches of Switzerland lives almost entirely on the right side of that divide.

When the market splits into a barbell, the company holding the authorized-dealer keys to the heavy end collects the difference, and 76% profit growth is what collecting it looks like.

The barbell, per the FH · June export growth by band
Figure
Chf 200–500+54.1%
Above Chf 3,000+14.2%
Under Chf 200+9.9%
Chf 500–3,000, Decline−4.7%

Growth lives at the poles; Watches of Switzerland sells the heavy end June export growth by price band, FH data. Carat Capital graphics desk.

Arithmetic, then appetite

What happens next is arithmetic as much as appetite.

An approach at £1.75 billion was made against last year's earnings; any renewed bid now negotiates against this year's, plus a demonstrated willingness to say no. For the rest of the trade, the signal is simpler — the strongest balance sheets in watch retail are being built in American malls and London arcades, not in the middle of the price list.

The story so far

  1. £1.75 billion, declined: the day WoS said no
  2. Half the company is America now: Watches of Switzerland's year

Go deeper

Method

Growth lives at the poles; Watches of Switzerland sells the heavy end

Sources3