Carat^Capital
Carat Capital · The trade paper of the jewelry world · Est. MMXXVI · Free to read
Watches Desk · London

Watches of Switzerland says no — the £1.75 billion question

Private equity and strategic buyers approached the UK's biggest Rolex retailer in recent months; management, with shares up 55 percent this year to £7.50, wants significantly more than the market's £1.75 billion. No formal offer was made — yet.

Engraving — CC graphics deskCC/07-14
The approach · as reported
Target
Watches of Switzerland Group — FTSE 250, anchors Rolex distribution in Britain and much of America
Suitors
Private equity firms and strategic buyers, in recent months
Market value
About £1.75 billion at roughly £7.50 a share
Formal offer
None — talks only
Board's position
Any conversation starts significantly above the current price
FY2026
Revenue £1.8 billion, up 11% · adjusted EBIT £155 million
WOSG SHARE PRICE · POUNDSJANUARY 2022 PEAK£14.40NOW£7.50AUGUST LOW£3.20UP 55 PERCENT THIS YEAR — STILL ROUGHLY HALF THE 2022 PEAK
Plate I — The discount that invited the approach: the shares against their own history. Carat Capital graphics desk.  CC/2026/027

§1The public market undervalues the business — says the business.

Reuters reported on Monday that Watches of Switzerland Group, the FTSE 250 retailer that anchors Rolex distribution in Britain and much of America, has held talks in recent months with private equity firms and strategic buyers over a potential takeover. No formal offer materialized, and the reporting — confirmed in trade coverage by WatchPro on Tuesday — indicates chief executive Brian Duffy engaged with the approaches while making clear the board believes the public market undervalues the business. The shares jumped on the news.

The arithmetic of the standoff is simple. At roughly £7.50, the stock values the group at about £1.75 billion after a 55 percent rally this year — and still sits far below the £14.40 peak of January 2022, though comfortably above last August's £3.20 low. Management's position, per the reports, is that any conversation starts significantly above the current price.

Duffy's case rests on the operating numbers: fiscal 2026 revenue up 11 percent to £1.8 billion with adjusted EBIT of £155 million, delivered through what he called "strong execution against a complex operating backdrop."

§2The discount has a name: Bucherer.

The wounds that created the discount are specific. Rolex's 2023 acquisition of Bucherer put the industry's most important brand in direct ownership of a rival retailer and made every Rolex partner's agency feel contingent; a 2024 profit warning tied to lower-value allocations sharpened the point. What has changed since is the demand map — Swiss exports to the United States, the group's growth engine, rose 12 percent in May while the wider industry crawled — and the market's dawning recognition that scaled, Rolex-blessed retail is nearly impossible to replicate.

§3Cheap for reasons of sentiment, not cash.

That is precisely what makes the company attractive to private capital: a structurally advantaged distributor trading at a discount for reasons that are about sentiment and float, not cash generation. It is also what makes the board's refusal credible. Selling the UK and US Rolex franchise at the bottom of its own re-rating would be the kind of decision business schools teach against.

Selling the UK and US Rolex franchise at the bottom of its own re-rating would be the kind of decision business schools teach against.
— The Movement Desk
The Desk’s ViewWatches

The approach is the market talking to itself — luxury-watch retail equity is cheap relative to the auction rooms' euphoria for the product it sells, and someone tried to arbitrage the gap. Whether or not a formal bid follows, the episode marks the moment institutional money decided the watch-retail downturn was over.

Duffy just told them the recovery is not for sale at a discount.

The Morning Brief · free

The trade, filed to your inbox before the New York open.

Prices, tenders and the one story that moved the industry overnight — read in ninety seconds.

Subscribe free →