Zero for Antwerp, and the grown stone pays anyway
The Section 301 tariffs that took effect on July 24 exempt loose natural diamonds cut in the European Union at 0%, along with coloured stones and natural pearls. Lab-grown diamonds received no exemption anywhere on the list.
By The Diamonds Desk
What changed
The tariff schedule that took effect at midnight on July 24 has drawn a line the trade did not expect, and it runs between the two kinds of diamond rather than between two countries.
What it means
- A grower in Surat now ships into the United States at 10% while an Antwerp dealer ships a mined stone at nothing, and no amount of marketing closes a gap that arrives before either stone reaches a display case. The lab-grown trade spent three years arguing it should be treated as a diamond for descriptive purposes and resisting the word synthetic.
- Washington has now treated it as a manufactured good for tariff purposes, which is the more expensive definition of the two. The category asked to be judged by what it is rather than where it came from, and the customs schedule has obliged.
Key figures
| EU loose natural diamonds | 0% |
|---|---|
| across 60 countries | 10–12.5% |
| exemptions for lab-grown | 0 |
| Belgian polished to US, 2024 | $2.1B |
Source: the July 24 schedule
A line between two kinds of stone
Loose natural diamonds cut in the European Union enter the United States at 0%, exempted outright from the Section 301 duties of 10% to 12.5% now applied to roughly 60 countries on forced-labour grounds. Rough and polished coloured gemstones and natural pearls from the bloc are exempt on the same terms.
Lab-grown diamonds received no exemption from any country on the list.
Antwerp is the direct beneficiary, and the size of the benefit is measurable. Belgium exported $2.1 billion of polished diamonds to the United States in 2024, a flow that has spent the past eleven months being repriced by three separate regimes.
A 10% reciprocal duty applied from September 2025 until it was ruled unlawful in February. A 10% general import surcharge under Section 122 of the Trade Act ran from February until July 24. From July 24 the Section 301 schedule governs, and the Belgian natural stone pays nothing under it.
Karen Rentmeesters, chief executive of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, gave the reasoning: "No diamonds are still being mined or cut in the US."
What a stone pays entering the United States
Source: the July 24 schedule
No industry to protect
That argument is the whole mechanism, and it explains the shape of the exemption list. Section 301 protects a domestic industry, and the United States has neither a diamond mine of consequence nor a cutting trade to shelter, so a duty on polished naturals would tax American retailers to defend nothing.
The same logic exempted raw and semi-manufactured gold, silver, platinum and palladium from all 60 countries. It did not exempt lab-grown stones, which the United States does manufacture, and which therefore sit on the wrong side of a test that was never written with them in mind.
| Figure | |
|---|---|
| Natural, Cut In The Eu | 0% |
| India, Canada, Uk | 10% |
| Uae, Israel, South Africa | 12.5% |
| Brazil | 37.5% |
| Canada Polished, Aug 19 | 50% |
Section 301 schedule in force July 24, 2026. Lab-grown exempt nowhere. Carat Capital graphics desk.
An uneven schedule
The rest of the schedule is uneven in ways that will move goods. India, Canada, Mexico, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and the United Kingdom pay 10%. Angola, Australia, China, Colombia, Hong Kong, Israel, South Africa, Thailand, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates pay 12.5%.
Switzerland, Japan and South Korea face a minimum of 12.5% stacked on existing rates, while Brazil carries 37.5% in total. Argentina, Bangladesh, Cambodia, Ecuador, El Salvador, Guatemala, Indonesia, Jordan, Switzerland and Taiwan hold diamond and gem exemptions of their own. Canadian polished diamonds are governed separately and face 50% from August 19.
The story so far
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Method
Section 301 schedule in force July 24, 2026. Lab-grown exempt nowhere.