Vol. I — No. 002 · Fourth Edition
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Desk D—06 · Retail & Technology
Carat^Capital
Carat Capital · The trade paper of the jewelry world · Read in 120+ countries
Desk D—06 · Filed Daily

Retail & Technologythe counter, rebuilt for the next generation

Where the industry meets its customer — and its future. The retail desk covers lab-grown economics, e-commerce and live-selling, traceability tech, AI in the showroom, and the store formats winning buyers who are 24, online at midnight, and allergic to velvet ropes.

$720Lab-grown 1ct, retail
~20%Of sales now online
24Median first-buyer age
PLATE D-06 — THE RETAIL & TECHNOLOGY DESK CC/2026/D06
Engraving — CC graphics deskD—06

The briefing — what's moving now

Updated each edition
B-01

Lab-grown settles into its true business model

At an 86% discount to natural, LGD is no longer a diamond substitute — it's a fashion-jewelry category with diamond optics. Margins migrate from the stone to the brand and the volume.

Economics · Global
B-02

Live selling jumps the Pacific

The livestream counter that built China's jewelry e-commerce is landing in the West — TikTok gem sales, WhatsApp private clienteling, and jewelers becoming broadcasters.

Channels · Shenzhen
B-03

Traceability tech grows teeth

Blockchain provenance, ledgers, and assay-office digital passports move from pilot to mandate as regulation and retailer policy converge. The tech stack becomes a condition of shelf space.

Technology · London

Understand the segment — the working vocabulary

The trade's terms, plainly told
Lab-grown (LGD)Term

Diamonds grown in weeks by HPHT or CVD — chemically identical to mined, economically a different universe. Their price curve is a technology curve, which is the whole story.

ClientelingPractice

One-to-one retail relationship management — the private-client WhatsApp thread, remembered anniversaries, first calls on new goods. The oldest luxury skill, now run on software.

OmnichannelConcept

The customer researches at midnight, tries on Saturday, buys by DM on Tuesday. Winning retailers price, stock and staff as one continuous counter across all of it.

Digital product passportRegulation

An EU-led ID standard giving each piece a scannable record of origin, materials and custody. Coming for jewelry the way nutrition labels came for food.

Latest from this desk

Filed by correspondents
S—01

Lab-grown slips again — the 86% question nobody will answer aloud

The discount to natural widened to 86% this week. The obituary readings are wrong: what collapsed is the price of carbon, and what survived is the business model.
2026-07-10 · 7 min
S—02

The Asia ledger: record profits at the gold counter while the West grinds

Chow Tai Fook's profit jumped 52 percent to a record HK$9.08 billion. Luk Fook grew revenue 29 percent. Hong Kong jewelry retail is running up 20 percent. The gold bull market found its cash register.
2026-07-09 · 6 min
S—03

Tariff arithmetic: zero for natural, eighteen for grown

The US–India interim trade deal will eliminate duty on Indian-cut natural diamonds while lab-growns keep an 18 percent rate — the first time trade policy has priced the two products differently. The pipeline is already repositioning.
2026-07-08 · 6 min
S—04

The midnight counter: how 24-year-olds actually buy emeralds

Live streams, DMs and the death of the appointment. A field study.
Channels · 8 min
S—05

America 250: heritage houses mint an anniversary economy

The patriotic product wave is a retail calendar event now.
New York · 4 min
S—06

The digital product passport is coming for your inventory

What the EU standard means for every stockroom, explained.
Regulation · 6 min

This desk, on the record — the last eight weeks

Retail & Tech Week of July 6

US independents post a fewer-better-dearer May

Independent jewelers' sales rose 12% YoY on a 22% higher average ticket with 9% fewer units; diamond average prices +21%.

Source — The Diamond Press
Retail & Tech Week of June 22

Signet steadies, Asia soars

Signet Q1: $1.55B (+0.7%), same-store +1.8%, guidance floor raised to $6.7B. Chow Tai Fook FY: revenue +5% to HK$94.4B, profit +52% to a record HK$9.08B; Luk Fook revenue +29%, profit +89%.

Source — The Diamond Press
Retail & Tech Week of June 1 — Vegas week

Pandora widens its lab-grown footprint

Lab-grown collections expand to Spain and Italy via Barcelona and Milan flagships — eight markets globally.

Source — The Diamond Press
Retail & Tech Late May

Jewelry leads a €1.44T luxury market

Bain–Altagamma puts 2025 global luxury spending at €1.44T with jewelry the leading category; personal luxury +1% in H1 2026, 2–4% forecast for the year.

Source — Bain / Altagamma

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